Brown in town

Kngsmn 1

You may think of a fitting spy movie that was in cinemas last year which is partially responsible for my curiosity about double-breasted suits, military heritage striped ties and classic accessories for men. Hopefully however there is more to the way we like to dress than just singular pieces of pop culture. I am definitely in love with the larger 70s lapel and even though the quality is not high-end, leading to a bit of creasing at the tip, for the price I paid, the entire suit holds up well. The wool fabric pattern is a very fine houndstooth, I can’t get enough of that either.

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The cufflinks, the watch and the tie are all vintage, burgundy and darker reds are perfect shades for all kinds of looks, so I replaced the original strap with red as I’ve mentioned in an earlier article. The gloves, one of Paul Rosen’s (Peek & Cloppenburg in-house brand) best ideas, are among my five items that receive the most compliments: Rightfully so. I do promise to include them in future pictures as well. The French cuff Tom Ford shirt does a nice job of adding to the 70s look.

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I agree that this Johnny Love parka style jacket (it originally featured a hood which I detached) may not be the first choice to pair with a double-breasted suit & tie ensemble, but going with the theme of heritage functionality (And taking a page out of the Scandinavian style book as well) it adds more flexibility. Dark green cashmere-wool, water-resistant and padded on the inside it is a nice blend of British Burberry and Barbour aesthetics. Men today do not pay enough attention to the collar, not only can it be protective but it also frames the upper body which is why I like large and robust collars on most of my jackets.

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The issue of double-breasted suits is much older than the current debate would imply. Nowadays it is all about body types and making a statement (Meaning there is a belief that only tall, athletic, young and dynamic actors ought to wear them.) Back in the day, meaning before 1950, a double-breasted suit was for everyone, because it did what any suit was supposed to do, hide the shirt and conceal as much as possible (which is why the three-piece was so prevailing up until the second half of the 20th century when rules were changing). Then during the 80s and 90s fuller cuts and the association with low buttoned jackets were overwriting the public perception of this style.

At the end of the day it is about the cut and quality, obviously buttons and their placement play a role in adjusting to different types of men, but that question arises with every type of suit. I have considered adding two buttons to my suit, to balance my longer upper body. One thing however should be considered when buying or ordering a double-breasted suit : It is to be worn closed at all times, so if you’re used to sitting down in a single breasted open jacket the form of two closed button rows will feel different and you might not like the chest drape. This also links it to the British military heritage and the general idea that their suits are stiffer and more formal than for example Italian ones.

The next big project will involve some more 60s to 80s inspired elements (which can all be integrated into a contemporary wardrobe of course.) so if there is any style or item you definitely want to see just leave us a comment or message. Also if you did indeed made it all the way to the end if this article I’d love a bit of feedback on the way we write.

/jf

Kngsmn 2

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